Introduction
In early April, during a four-day slideshow tour through Arizona, I was fortunate to have a day off to actually experience – as opposed to just talk about – some of Arizona’s abundant backcountry. Grand Canyon National Park seemed like the obvious place to go, and running from the South Rim to the North Rim and back, a distance of 41.8 miles with 21,420 feet of vertical change, seemed like the obvious thing to do – at least, I thought so.

While perhaps a touch extreme, running Rim-to-Rim-to-Rim (RRR) is not uncommon: within trail running circles, it’s regarded as a classic, a must-do. And I was not at all surprised to pass two other groups running the Canyon that day, including a threesome from Vancouver, B.C.

But within hiking circles, this trek does not seem to garner much attention. Incorrectly, I believe as there are few trips, mile-for-mile, hour-for-hour, that compare. Think about it: in one day, you pass through 1.6 billion years of geology (four times) and you span the grandest Big Ditch in the world (twice). This is a fantastic undertaking for hikers who have limited vacation time; have limited free-time during a family vacation to the Canyon; do not want to take a complete overnight backpacking kit on an otherwise casual vacation; seek high bang-for-the-buck backcountry routes; want to test themselves with long days and exorbitant vertical change; and/or who cannot obtain the necessary permits to go RRR the traditional way: a slow-and-heavy four- or five-day affair.

This article provides the critical information you need to hike or run RRR. It’s targeted towards fast-and-fit hikers and for ultra-runners who do not want to overnight. I do realize that covering forty-two miles in a day is not feasible or desired by some, so at points I have included applicable information for the overnight backpacker as well.

Key Stats
Length

The shortest route, via the South Kaibab and North Kaibab Trails, is 41.8 miles. The longer, less popular route, via the Bright Angel and North Kaibab Trails, is 46.6 miles. It is possible to take the South Kaibab down and the Bright Angel up, or vice-versa, in which case the distance would be 44.2 miles. (Note: The South Kaibab and Bright Angel Trailheads are about three miles apart, both reachable via car, shuttle, and foot).

Vertical Change

The South Kaibab Trailhead (at the South Rim) is at 7,260 feet, the Colorado River is at 2,400 feet, and the North Kaibab Trailhead (at the North Rim) is at 8,250 feet. Total elevation gain is 10,710 feet , and ditto for elevation loss. Total elevation change, up and down, is 21,420 feet. In short, a lot.

Trip Planning
Route Selection

The South Kaibab Trail is generally preferred to the Bright Angel Trail as it is more direct, and thus shorter; and the trail itself is more exposed, leading to better views of the Canyon, particularly eastward. Relative to the South Kaibab Trail, the Bright Angel Trail is not as exciting: the views are more limited, and the section along the Colorado River is not especially dynamic. However, the Bright Angel may make for an easier ascent because it features four water sources, whereas the South Kaibab Trail has none. Reaching these trailheads is equally convenient – the South Kaibab is close to Village Marketplace and the Bright Angel is adjacent to Grand Canyon Village. From the Colorado River, the only logical trail to the North Rim is the North Kaibab Trail. If you are planning to overnight, other routes become feasible: the Tanner, Grandview, and Bass Trails all descend from the South Rim and can be connected to the North Kaibab Trail via the Tonto and Escalante Trails (the latter only if you descend via the Tanner Trail).

Time of Year

There are two primary factors in determining the ideal season for a RRR hike or run: temperatures and snowpack. Hours of daylight and water availability are secondary factors. In short, Spring and Fall are the most ideal seasons; Summer and Winter are doable but less desirable.

South-to-North-to-South, or Vice-Versa

The experience is different depending on where you start from, particularly in when you reach the steepest sections (at the start and end, or in the middle) and for how long you must go between water sources. It is recommended to disregard these differences and to choose the most convenient starting point given your travel plans. For most people this will be the South Rim, which is easily accessible from Flagstaff and Phoenix. The remote North Rim is less popular, though it is more convenient for those driving from points north (notably Las Vegas, Salt Lake, and Denver). Note that you may not have a choice about where you start: the North Rim is only open mid-May through mid-October, depending on weather and snow conditions.

Time Allocation

The speed record for RRR was set in early-November 2007 by Dave Mackey of Boulder, Colorado, with a time of 6:59:57. Traveling at a more recreational pace, most runners finish in 10-14 hours. Hikers can expect a minimum of 14 hours, with 16-18 hours probably being the norm. Overnighters will want to budget 1.5-2.5 days, depending on your fitness level, the type of experience you want (i.e. intensity), and the backcountry campsites that are available when you apply for a permit. Speaking of…

Permits

According to official park rules, backcountry permits are required for any “overnight use”, which includes not only camping but also night hiking, though I’d be hard-pressed to believe that Park Service rangers are patrolling the trails at night looking for bandits. Therefore, if you plan to crisscross the canyon in a day, you do not need a permit. If you plan to overnight – and, officially, if you plan to hike in the dark – then you need to get a permit from the Backcountry Office (see External Links, below).

Parking

If you start from South Kaibab, try to park at the picnic area immediately east of the junction of Desert View Drive and Yaki Point Drive. If you start from Grandview Point, park near the Bright Angel Lodge. (If parking spots are sparse, you may want to leave your car where it is and take the park shuttle.) At the North Rim, you can park at the North Kaibab Trailhead or at the Visitors Center.

TEMPERATURES SNOWPACK DAYLIGHT WATER AVAILABILITY
SPRING
Mid-March to mid-May Rims: Cool
River: Comfortable Lingers on North Rim through ~mid-April Adequate Some faucets still turned off; seasonal water is flowing
SUMMER
Mid-May through August Rims: Comfortable
River: Hot None Abundant All faucets on; only perennial sources flowing
FALL
September through November Rims: Cool
River: Comfortable Reappears ~December Not prohibitive Faucets still on; some seasonal sources flow again
WINTER
December through mid-March Rims: Cold
River: Cool Snow and ice on both South and North Rims Little Faucets off; some seasonal sources will flow
Campsites

Camping along the RRR route is permitted in designated areas only. These include: Mather Campground (about two miles from Bright Angel TH and three miles from South Kaibab TH), Indian Gardens, Bright Angel, Cottonwood, and North Rim (about one mile from the North Kaibab TH).

Maps

A detailed topographical map is recommended. While the junctions are clearly marked, a mistake could be disastrous. National Geographic’s Trails Illustrated map (no. 207) is adequate. To reduce your pack weight by a few ounces, I recommend printing a color copy of your route area. (If the copy is not bleed-proof, store it in a waterproof bag, like an Alokosak.)

Trip Description
Terrain

It IS the Grand Canyon – hopefully you know what it looks like! It consists of a series of generally impassable layers, most of which are sedimentary, like the Coconino Sandstone, Red Wall, and Tonto Platform. But there has been other geologic activity, too: the Inner Gorge is made of a volcanic schist that has been pierced by granite dikes. The three trails involved in RRR are steadily up or down – there are hardly any rolling sections.

Trail Conditions

The three trails are heavily used and well maintained. Some sections are rocky, but usually the footing is smooth. Because mule trains use South Kaibab and Bright Angel, there are extensive water bars to prevent erosion – the trail is sometimes like a long staircase. Expect lots of dust, particularly during dry spells and when foot traffic is heaviest.

Vegetation

The South Rim is dominated by ponderosa pines; on the North Rim you’ll also find scrub oak and aspens. As you descend, you’ll first pass by pinyon pines and juniper trees. Just below is the desert scrub community: creosote, blackbrush, ocotillo, prickly pear, and yucca. And finally, along the Colorado River, it’s a riparian environment, with mesquite trees, willows, and the invasive tamarisk.

Snow

Typical of the Southwest, snowfall at the Grand Canyon is erratic, by both annual and decadal measures. On average, snow begins to fall in November, and earnest melting begins in March. After an average winter and spring, expect to encounter snow on the highest, most heavily shaded sections on the South Rim Trails through about mid-March and on the North Kaibab Trail through about April.

Temperatures

The South Rim is 4,860 vertical feet above the Colorado River, and the North Rim is 5,850 feet higher. Therefore, you will likely encounter a wide range of temperatures during your trip. For example, if you start early on an April morning from the South Rim, a normal temperature would be in the low-thirties. And if you were in the Inner Gorge during the day’s high temperature, it would likely be in the low-eighties – a fifty-degree difference! For more historical weather information, visit http://www.grand.canyon.national-park.com/weather.htm.

Food & Water
Water Sources

Despite a major river cutting through the Canyon, natural water sources are sparse and mostly seasonal. Thankfully, there are numerous non-natural water sources along the RRR route – some are year-round while others are turned on seasonally. Note that occasionally the pipe system fails, in which case these non-natural water sources will not be reliable – there will probably be bulletins posted in key locations if this occurs. To download a PDF document that provides water charts for each of the six route options, click here (Adobe PDF File, 40k).

Water Consumption

There are two parts to determining optimal hydration – that is, carrying exactly enough to stay hydrated, but no more. One part is knowing the locations of water sources and the distances between them (see paragraph above). The other part is knowing your rate of water use, which is a function of your physical output and the environmental conditions (namely, ambient temperature and sunlight exposure). If you make the effort to determine your rate of water use during training efforts, it is very valuable information. Personally, when I am hiking, I find that I need a maximum of one liter per hour – like when I’m on a good climb through a shade-less desert landscape with ninety-degree temperatures. As my effort and/or the temperatures mellow out, I need less water – my average consumption in typical three-season conditions is about one liter for every two to three hours.

Food

If you know what works for you during this type of endeavor, go for it. I carried drink mixes and gels – they go down easy, require minimal digestive effort, and are tolerable for a day. I found that 400 calories every two hours was sufficient, after starting with a moderate 800-calorie breakfast of energy bars. When I reached the top, I had a one pound slab of protein-rich honey ham waiting for me in the car, which I think helped tremendously with my quick recovery. (I was slightly achy and stiff the next day, but felt good enough for a thirty-minute run.)

Gear
Clothing

Again, if you know what is most comfortable for you, the conditions you will encounter, go for it. Generally, aim for lightweight flexibility. My own outfit consisted of split running shorts, a polyester t-shirt, a lightweight beanie, mid-weight wool gloves, lightweight arm warmers, and a windshirt and windpants. This system worked well: I was comfortable from start to finish, and I was able to make quick thermoregulatory adjustments using the gloves, beanie, and arm warmers. The one change I may make for next time is to leave the windpants in the car – it was twenty-nine degrees when I started but within twenty minutes it was warm enough for shorts.

Pack

You have two options: a waist/bottle pack or a backpack. I prefer a backpack: they feel more natural (to me, at least), they carry weight better, they do not restrict hip movement, and they do not cause running shorts to ride up. The features of an ideal pack for this endeavor are: 500-750 cubic inches of volume, hip belt pockets, exterior pockets, and a chassis that minimizes bouncing (i.e. a good waist belt, a sternum strap, and load compression straps).

Water Containers

You have four options: squeeze bottles, a reservoir with hose, collapsible bottles, or a mix of the above. Squeeze bottles are easy to fill and drink from (you can store them in side pockets, lash them to your shoulder straps, or use a hand pouch), but their carrying capacity is limited. They are ideal when water sources are frequent and/or when minimal water is needed. Reservoirs with hoses are easy to drink from, they carry well, and they offer big volume capacities; but they are difficult to fill, and estimating the remaining fluid volume takes familiarity. They are ideal when water sources are few and far between and/or when you are consuming lots of water. Collapsible bottles offer superior volume-to-weight ratios and high volume capacities, but they are difficult to drink from when on-the-move and they are not as easy to fill as squeeze bottles. They are ideal for hiking.

Lighting

If you expect to be traveling in the dark, you’ll want a bright, lightweight LED light. I prefer the Petzl Tikka XP, which I have re-threaded with a 40 inch by 1 inch webbing belt so that I can wear it around my waist – this results in greatly improved depth perception of on-trail obstacles like rocks and roots. Even if you do not plan to travel in the dark, it may be prudent to carry a one-LED light, like the Photon Freedom Micro. In the event that your plan goes awry (e.g. if you bonk, get lost, or are slower than you think) you will not need to spend the night in the Canyon without adequate overnight gear.

Trekking Poles

If you plan to run most of the trip, they are probably not worthwhile – they are awkward to carry while running, and they add twelve to sixteen ounces to your load. But if you plan to hike all, or most of the miles, plan to use a pair – they will save your legs.